Bulgogi

Ingredients

• 1⅓ lbBeefflank steak or sirloin, sliced very thinly against the grain
• 1⅓ lbporkalternative to beef: pork collar or chops (optional)
• 1⅓ lbchickenalternative to beef: boneless thigh or breast (optional)
• 4 tbspSoy saucebase of the marinade
• 2 tbspbrown sugarfor caramelization
• 1 tbspHoneyextra sweetness and gloss
• 2 tbspRice wineor mirin
• 4 clovesGarlicfinely minced
• 1 tspGingerfinely grated
• 1 tbspSesame oilfor the marinade
• 1 tbspSesame seedstoasted, in the marinade and for sprinkling
• ½ tspBlack pepperground
• 2Scallioncut into pieces, cooked along or as garnish
• 5¼ ozOnionjulienned, partly also grated into the marinade
• 3½ ozApplegrated, tenderizes the meat; Korean pear works too
• 1Carrotcut into matchsticks or slices
• 2 tbspGochujangfor the spicy version (optional)
• 2 tbspGochugaruKorean chilli flakes, for extra heat (optional)
• 1 tbsplemon juiceacidity in the marinade, cider vinegar works too (optional)
• 1 tbspcooking oilneutral, for searing
• Ricesteamed, to serve
• lettucefresh leaves for wrapping, plus perilla and cucumber (optional)

Method

1. Trim the beef, cut away any coarse fat, and use a sharp knife to slice it very thinly against the grain; if you're going with pork or chicken instead, cut the meat into bite-sized pieces.
2. For the marinade, stir together the soy sauce, brown sugar, honey, rice wine, minced garlic, grated ginger, sesame oil, toasted sesame seeds and black pepper until the sugar has completely dissolved.
3. Finely grate the apple and part of the onion into the marinade — the fruit is what tenderizes the meat. Add a squeeze of lemon juice if you like.
4. Add the meat to the marinade along with the remaining onion cut into julienne, the carrot and the scallion pieces, then massage everything together lightly with your hands.
5. Let it marinate for at least 30 to 60 minutes, either chilled or at room temperature.
6. Get a skillet or grill pan very hot, add the cooking oil and lay the meat in flat, working in batches — don't crowd the pan or the meat will steam in its own juices.
7. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes per side, until the surface caramelizes; lower the heat a little if needed so the marinade doesn't burn.
8. Finish with a scattering of scallion and sesame seeds and serve piping hot with steamed rice.
9. Serve immediately while the edges are still crisp and glossy.

Tips and variations

Use boneless chicken thigh or breast in small pieces with a 30-minute marinade and you've got Dak Bulgogi. For the spicy pork version, stir gochujang and gochugaru into the marinade and cook it all in a wok — serve as a rice bowl with lettuce, perilla, cucumber and kimchi. Thick pork chops can marinate overnight, at least twelve hours, then go over high heat on the grill, finish over indirect heat and rest briefly. A large piece of beef can be seared first, then braised with the vegetables and sauce in a slow cooker for 3–4 hours on high or 5–6 hours on low, and sliced only afterward. Instead of apple or pear, pineapple juice or a mashed ripe banana both work, ideally alongside Korean soup soy sauce (gukganjang). In a hurry, flatten the meat with the back of your knife and give it just 10 minutes in the marinade. At the table, bulgogi is lovely with fresh lettuce leaves for wrapping, plus perilla, cucumber, kimchi and a spicy dipping sauce.